Mt Kilimanjaro

Monday 7th May 2007 Marangu Hotel Camp
Today we were woken by an excited Dave who had risen early to check the cloud cover over Mt Kili. It was clear so we put on the first clothes we could grab (Nev put on my jacket which was miles too small) and trotted out in the dewy-wet morning with our cameras to record the lucky event. At this time of the year with the rains and clouds we were very lucky to see the glistening white glacier at the summit of the 5895m high Uhuru mountain peak. The jaggered right hand 5149m high Mawenzi looked higher, but that was because it was closer.
We took a guide to show us the way to the extinct crater lake of Lake Chala. It is 3Km diameter and filled with turquoise crystal clear water. The surrounding 90 degrees forest-covered cliffs drop at into the bottomless fathoms. It is an amazing oasis which drops unexpectedly into the dry acacia and Euphorbia covered landscape where subsistence farmers eke out a living from the fertile, but dry Karroo-type soil.
The next part of our trip took us up the slopes of Mt Kili again through tropical forests of bananas with wild Busy-lizzies flowering on the damp moss covered roadsides. Our destination, a huge, stone, 106 year old Catholic church with beautiful stained-glass windows.
Then we went down the mountain to see the colourful Marangu market where we stocked up with six eggs at R1 each, two avocado pears at R1.50 each and four tomatoes for R1.50.
Our heavy-duty LHS back spring suddenly broke on the way, so we carefully drove around and after a drink at the local tavern with our friends, went off to Moshi to repair the damage. We had to fit two light-duty springs, as the nearest supply of heavy-duty ones was in Nairobi. The Landrover place replaced the brake-pads while they had all the wheels off Tsh250000 ($200) for the lot. The spring had a weak, corroded spot about 1/3 of the way through which had caused it to break.

Sunday 6th May 2007 Marangu Hotel Camp
While waiting for Dave to get his brakes fixed we went to the lovely Kinukamori waterfall and cultural display of sculptures depicting local folklore. It was very well done and, although not spectacular, well worth supporting the community who are running it. A trip to Moshi to see the country around Mt Kili revealed the stark difference between the cool, lush and fertile slopes of the mountain and the hot, dry acacia Karroo landscape on the flats surrounding it.
The group re-united having had problems with Brian’s Landy when the prop-shaft fell off!! No serious damage, but had to drive in2-wheel drive till he was able to fix it. They had an interesting but exhausting 5-hour walk in the steep, lush and spectacular Usambara mountains, taking in the spectacular but chilly scenery in the mountains and thrilling views across the plains.

Saturday 5th May 2007 Marangu Hotel camp
The long road to Marangu was uneventful except for Dave having another puncture. We listened to book tapes to relieve the boredom of hot dry acacia-filled flats, while avoiding the maniacal, crabbing, center-pin-less busses intent on suicide and wiping us out while doing it, whether approaching at break-neck speed or side-swiping us while overtaking. The many police road-blocks with police in crisp, snow-white uniforms were busy checking the passing busses and did not bother with us at all.


Friday 4th May 2007 Lily Pad Quarry camp
Morning saw us getting our Landy cleaned at a car-wash to get rid of the caked-on mud. Every time they sprayed my door I got a foot-wash because Landys aren’t very water-proof. Then we spent two hours getting across Dar to find the BP depot to get our gas cylinders refilled. It took us the whole afternoon because of the go-slow as Nev refused to bribe the man with the requested Tsh5000, (R30). Driving west at 5pm into the sun out of Dar was rather uncomfortable, and we made slow headway. On the road to Chalinze after dark we found a quarry with ponds of water-lilly pads and Dave, Beryl and we made camp there that night with the sound of traffic all night long. During the night I heard a “motar bomb” exploding and on our way out we found two trucks had collided head on, which explained the noise.
Our friends stayed at Dar to complete their repairs, intending to go to Lushoto in the Ushabara mountains before meeting us in Marangu.
We made our way to Tanga, a Tanzanian surprise! It is one of the few places we have seen which is prospering. There is a cement factory and huge sisal plantations which have started to bring money into Tanga. Instead of dhows in the harbour there was a yacht club with expensive ski boats and yachts anchored in the mangrove-surrounded bay. New homes and renovations were being done in the ‘elite’ peninsular. We stayed in the up-market Kiboko Hotel grounds where a fat little Swiss bod who had been there for 25years welcomed us with genial hospitality.


Thursday 3rd May 2007 Silver Sands
Hope the others can complete their repairs as we are looking forward to leaving Dar. Shopped and found an internet café and slept the night in the same place waiting for completion of vehicle repairs.