Monday 1st October 2007 Same Siwa desert camp
We spent an anxious day waiting for news of whether our visa into Libya would be ready in time as FNB in Mooi River had neglected to send the money transfer to the UK. We drove east to the salt lakes with the bubbling hot springs, very obviously the remains of an ancient, now desiccated sea bed.
Here in Siwa water is plentiful 40m below the surface, and either hot or cold brackish water, hence only dates and olives can grow as they can handle the salt.
Siwa has 25,000 inhabitants ruled by strict Muslem culture and strong traditions. Married women cover their whole bodies including wearing gloves and veils over their entire faces.
The Italians were in Siwa during WW2 and promised to build roads, electricity and houses for the inhabitants. But once they killed and ate one of the Siwa donkeys, the Siwa people were very sad. When the British bombed the town killing 5 locals and drove out the Italians, they realised there was a war on, and so the promises of the Italians were never met.
We spent the evening in the silence on our backs on shade-cloth in the sand studying the stars and looking for satellites. (Nev found a record 11, and I found the northern constellations which have been eluding me for many years).
One always associates oases with camels, but we did not see one, only badly treated donkeys - they beat them on their swollen rumps with planks or poles -poor things.
Sunday 30th September 2007 Siwa Desert camp
This morning we drove around Siwa town and saw the various sights. In the afternoon we went with Ahmed in his Landcruiser into the desert for which we had to get police permission. We had to go with a guide so we went with his vehicle as it was the same price. He took us to a hot spring 30Km away into the Great Sand Desert where in the 1960s the Russians were drilling for oil. They hit water at 950m instead of oil.
This water is 40deg and bubbles out from the pipe into the middle of a small pool. The water over flows, seeps into the sand and comes up, cool, 1Km away into a dam 100mX200m and 6m deep. We swam in both of these places where the water had algae and little fish.
We then were taken to the fossil sea beds where the dunes had been blown away and had exposed the hard bottom of an ancient sea bed, full of shells, snails, and mollusks. We went over a huge dune like in Namibia and up the other side to watch the sun setting over the light khaki coloured dunes. (In the Namib the dunes turned red.)
Saturday 29th September 2007 Siwa Oasis in Desert
A totally new experience this: It was breezy last night, 18deg but it was literally raining with dew this morning. No mist, no fog, but the dew was condensing on everything and running off the top of the tent.
There were small bushes around with big white snails. These supported the night life of small snakes, scorpions, lizards and mice, none of which we actually saw, but there was lots of evidence of their activities this morning.
We reluctantly left his lovely desert for the Siwa Oasis.
We saw some of the sights around Siwa. We wanted to swim, but in both pools where 'foreigners' could swim, men were bathing with soap or washing their galabiyas with Omo in the pools and no women were there at all.
There are springs all over here. Some hot, some salty and some fresh.
Because of irrigating salt water over the centuries the soil is very saline and most of the agriculture is date palm and olives. Fresh dates are as sweet and delicious as the dried ones we get in SA but the olives are HORRIBLE fresh, and have to be soaked in salt for two weeks.
Siwa Oasis is 18m below sea level and 300Km from the Med Sea.
We found a nice campsite on the edge of the town in the desert. The sand was very fine and we got stuck but after letting our tyres down to 1bar we sailed out.
Friday 28th September 2007 Snail desert
We read about Alexandria and found it had 5million people and we headed east for Al Alamein instead. We visited the WW2 war memorial and grave site. Very well kept, clean and tidy but reading the names and gravestones made me get goose-flesh and wanting to cry at the waste of life and sadness this caused.
We then went into a little village, found a secluded place between all the resorts on the Mediterranean Sea and had a lovely swim in the crystal clear, like swimming pool, water with white beaches stretching on either side, with no-one anywhere near. The whole area east of Alexandria is built up with resorts, the Egyptians' favourite holiday place. (Whereas the Russians and other tourists go to the Red Sea resorts.)
The muslems are very conservative and women cover up their whole heads, some even including their eyes. How we manage to find the unpopulated places is a mystery, but we do.
We then headed for Mersa Mertrouh where we drove around, as Dad Karg had mentioned it a lot from his war stories. It is now a resort town waiting for the influx of visitors, so is empty and full of litter, although the water in the bay is, again, like a swimming pool in clarity.
We then headed for Siwa Oasis and slept in the desert an hour from Mersa Mertrouh and enjoyed the silence of the desert.
Map of Africa
Our route
Sunday, September 30, 2007
Dahab to Cairo, Egypt
Thursday 27th September 2007 Desert Falcon Quarry
We cleaned out the car, left our good friends Harry and Joanne’s house (Words cannot express our gratitude to their kind hospitality) and proceeded towards Alexandria along a 4-lane double highway in both directions (8 lanes). Most of the area is built up canalled and cultivated, even though this was called the 'desert road'. Luckily we found an open place and we went into the desert and found a place to sleep in a sand quarry.
Wednesday 26th September 2007 Burema's house, Cairo
Today we went by taxi to the Agricultural Museum. Paid 10c entry each with 10c to take photos. How cheap is that!? We saw ancient implements, seeds found in tombs and pyramids, mummies and skeletons of animals all very well displayed. Also the history of animal husbandry, and agriculture very well done originally, but with much needed dusting and a bit of TLC.
Then we went to the Egyptian Museum which is a kind of warehouse for everything found in all the tombs and pyramids from all over Egypt. It was great, but the R100 each EXTRA to see the mummies was a bit overpriced for what we saw.
Then at the Citadel we met up with Corina and Daniel (Swiss cyclists) again and saw the Mohamed Ali mosque with magnificent views over the city.
We went by taxi today as parking is scarce and the driver knew his way around all the back roads and Nev wanted to look at the city instead of just the traffic.
Harry and Joanne have been absolutely wonderful to us, helping to fix the computer, giving us a replacement cell phone, plying us with 5-Star hospitality, and are such easy, friendly folk, helping us to feel quite at home.
Tuesday 25th September 2007 Burema's house, Cairo
Today we did the "Pyramid thing" (the Landy had to be parked outside as they considered the two gas cylinders on the back "too dangerous" - after going right through Africa with no incidents!) i.e. we rode camels around the pyramids at Giza. These are right on the edge of the city now. There are hundreds of unexplored tombs and smaller dilapidated pyramids around. All three pyramids and the Sphinx are very impressive. We stood in a long queue and paid R30 each to enter the pyramid through a long, low, claustrophobic, crowded tunnel to see a large, hewn out (of the sandstone rock) room with an empty, open sarcophagus. Some people were turning back when they couldn't take the humidity and musty, claustrophobic conditions. Nev talked me through it, or I would have turned back too. We spent more time there than the average tourist, and soaked up the atmosphere of being deep inside a 5000 year old tomb surrounded by tonnes and tonnes of man-built rocks.
The best part however was emerging into the fresh and relatively cool air outside.
There are several Arabs and security around who pretend they want to show you something special, take you out of the way to some opening in the ground, pretending that they are doing you a big favour by taking you where you are not allowed to go, and then want 'bakshish' (a huge tip), it really gets annoying.
Monday 24th September 2007 Burema's house Cairo
We went to the pyramids at Sakara and explored all around the tombs and pyramids avoiding the tourists. The step pyramid is one of the oldest in Egypt, but not that huge.
Sunday 23rd September 2007 “Harry and Joanne’s" house, Cairo
We left early in the morning intending to get to the Suez Canal. It was a long trip and we turned west at Ismailia and found ourselves at a ferry. We didn't see any locks on the canal, but the massive cargo vessels loaded with containers passed every 10 minutes within meters of us. After crossing the ferry (free) we realized we have been IN the Red Sea (swimming), UNDER the Red Sea (tunnel) and OVER the Red Sea (ferry).
We headed with dread for Cairo, (Dave had warned us how terrible the traffic was as he had been here previously). In actual fact it was fine, after having driven in Dar es Salaam, Addis Ababa and Nairobi.
It was busy, and Nev slotted quickly into the Cairo way of driving without hesitating and using his hooter to warn others of his position. With a vague map of Cairo out of the Lonely Planet Guide book and a GPS with some roads and no decent map, we found our way with "more ass than class" and sheer good luck through the middle of Cairo in rush hour traffic to the Burema's house in Ma'adi south of the city. Joanne is Rob Dunlop's sister and Harry his brother-in-law, whom we had met on our very first camping trip with Rick in 2000. We were welcomed with open arms.
Saturday 22nd September 2007 Safari Camp, St Katherine's Monestery, Mt Sinai
Left Dahab for St Katherine's monastery with the German, Michael, (who lives in Porto Rico and who is on a two year travel around the world - very philosophical, wise man). He sat on "Corina's box". We arrived at the monastery to find it closed and wouldn't open until Monday morning, but true to form, Nev found a narrow passage about 1m high with an unlocked door through with we snuck and managed to see most of what we wanted to see. Lots of long-haired bearded monks around. It is one of the few places where a mosque and a church are right next to each other with no evidence or history of antagonism. It is the oldest used monastery in the world and the Jews, Christians and Muslems treat it as a holy site. It is one mountain away from Mt Sinai (of the Ten Commandments fame).
Due to its elevation of 1400m and mount Sinai being over 2000m, the town is in the valley between high mountains and everything echoes (including Nev's favourite sound of the muezzin calling) and is a very touristy village. We didn't climb mount Sinai as we were too fat and unfit and lazy!!!
Friday 21st September 2007 Sunsplash Dahab
Snorkeling again, this time past the hundreds of tourists going to the Blue Hole on camels. There were more people in the water than fish! And this is the low season. Many were wallowing about awkwardly kicking the coral. Some went snorkeling with life jackets on. The clarity of the water allows for a visibility of at least 30m. Nev wasn't feeling well with a runny tummy but by the evening he had 'bottomed out' and was feeling a bit better. We had a lazy two days resting, reading, chatting and snorkeling.
Thursday 20th September 2007 Sunsplash Dahab
The mountains over the other side of the Gulf belong to Saudi Arabia, 18Km over the dark blue sea. The blueness of the sea is unbelievable. We went snorkeling at "lighthouse" in a protected bay.
The coral reef is a sheer wall, not like the flat corals at Sordwana, and we didn't see as much variety of animal life, mainly fish.
We cleaned out the car, left our good friends Harry and Joanne’s house (Words cannot express our gratitude to their kind hospitality) and proceeded towards Alexandria along a 4-lane double highway in both directions (8 lanes). Most of the area is built up canalled and cultivated, even though this was called the 'desert road'. Luckily we found an open place and we went into the desert and found a place to sleep in a sand quarry.
Wednesday 26th September 2007 Burema's house, Cairo
Today we went by taxi to the Agricultural Museum. Paid 10c entry each with 10c to take photos. How cheap is that!? We saw ancient implements, seeds found in tombs and pyramids, mummies and skeletons of animals all very well displayed. Also the history of animal husbandry, and agriculture very well done originally, but with much needed dusting and a bit of TLC.
Then we went to the Egyptian Museum which is a kind of warehouse for everything found in all the tombs and pyramids from all over Egypt. It was great, but the R100 each EXTRA to see the mummies was a bit overpriced for what we saw.
Then at the Citadel we met up with Corina and Daniel (Swiss cyclists) again and saw the Mohamed Ali mosque with magnificent views over the city.
We went by taxi today as parking is scarce and the driver knew his way around all the back roads and Nev wanted to look at the city instead of just the traffic.
Harry and Joanne have been absolutely wonderful to us, helping to fix the computer, giving us a replacement cell phone, plying us with 5-Star hospitality, and are such easy, friendly folk, helping us to feel quite at home.
Tuesday 25th September 2007 Burema's house, Cairo
Today we did the "Pyramid thing" (the Landy had to be parked outside as they considered the two gas cylinders on the back "too dangerous" - after going right through Africa with no incidents!) i.e. we rode camels around the pyramids at Giza. These are right on the edge of the city now. There are hundreds of unexplored tombs and smaller dilapidated pyramids around. All three pyramids and the Sphinx are very impressive. We stood in a long queue and paid R30 each to enter the pyramid through a long, low, claustrophobic, crowded tunnel to see a large, hewn out (of the sandstone rock) room with an empty, open sarcophagus. Some people were turning back when they couldn't take the humidity and musty, claustrophobic conditions. Nev talked me through it, or I would have turned back too. We spent more time there than the average tourist, and soaked up the atmosphere of being deep inside a 5000 year old tomb surrounded by tonnes and tonnes of man-built rocks.
The best part however was emerging into the fresh and relatively cool air outside.
There are several Arabs and security around who pretend they want to show you something special, take you out of the way to some opening in the ground, pretending that they are doing you a big favour by taking you where you are not allowed to go, and then want 'bakshish' (a huge tip), it really gets annoying.
Monday 24th September 2007 Burema's house Cairo
We went to the pyramids at Sakara and explored all around the tombs and pyramids avoiding the tourists. The step pyramid is one of the oldest in Egypt, but not that huge.
Sunday 23rd September 2007 “Harry and Joanne’s" house, Cairo
We left early in the morning intending to get to the Suez Canal. It was a long trip and we turned west at Ismailia and found ourselves at a ferry. We didn't see any locks on the canal, but the massive cargo vessels loaded with containers passed every 10 minutes within meters of us. After crossing the ferry (free) we realized we have been IN the Red Sea (swimming), UNDER the Red Sea (tunnel) and OVER the Red Sea (ferry).
We headed with dread for Cairo, (Dave had warned us how terrible the traffic was as he had been here previously). In actual fact it was fine, after having driven in Dar es Salaam, Addis Ababa and Nairobi.
It was busy, and Nev slotted quickly into the Cairo way of driving without hesitating and using his hooter to warn others of his position. With a vague map of Cairo out of the Lonely Planet Guide book and a GPS with some roads and no decent map, we found our way with "more ass than class" and sheer good luck through the middle of Cairo in rush hour traffic to the Burema's house in Ma'adi south of the city. Joanne is Rob Dunlop's sister and Harry his brother-in-law, whom we had met on our very first camping trip with Rick in 2000. We were welcomed with open arms.
Saturday 22nd September 2007 Safari Camp, St Katherine's Monestery, Mt Sinai
Left Dahab for St Katherine's monastery with the German, Michael, (who lives in Porto Rico and who is on a two year travel around the world - very philosophical, wise man). He sat on "Corina's box". We arrived at the monastery to find it closed and wouldn't open until Monday morning, but true to form, Nev found a narrow passage about 1m high with an unlocked door through with we snuck and managed to see most of what we wanted to see. Lots of long-haired bearded monks around. It is one of the few places where a mosque and a church are right next to each other with no evidence or history of antagonism. It is the oldest used monastery in the world and the Jews, Christians and Muslems treat it as a holy site. It is one mountain away from Mt Sinai (of the Ten Commandments fame).
Due to its elevation of 1400m and mount Sinai being over 2000m, the town is in the valley between high mountains and everything echoes (including Nev's favourite sound of the muezzin calling) and is a very touristy village. We didn't climb mount Sinai as we were too fat and unfit and lazy!!!
Friday 21st September 2007 Sunsplash Dahab
Snorkeling again, this time past the hundreds of tourists going to the Blue Hole on camels. There were more people in the water than fish! And this is the low season. Many were wallowing about awkwardly kicking the coral. Some went snorkeling with life jackets on. The clarity of the water allows for a visibility of at least 30m. Nev wasn't feeling well with a runny tummy but by the evening he had 'bottomed out' and was feeling a bit better. We had a lazy two days resting, reading, chatting and snorkeling.
Thursday 20th September 2007 Sunsplash Dahab
The mountains over the other side of the Gulf belong to Saudi Arabia, 18Km over the dark blue sea. The blueness of the sea is unbelievable. We went snorkeling at "lighthouse" in a protected bay.
The coral reef is a sheer wall, not like the flat corals at Sordwana, and we didn't see as much variety of animal life, mainly fish.
Wednesday, September 19, 2007
Sinai, Egypt
Wednesday 19th September 2007 Sunsplash Dive Center.
We traveled south, passing through many police check points having to produce passports and "where are you go" - always friendly, then turned East and traveled across the middle of Sinai through the spectacular geological formations of the mountains (more check points) along a dry river bed, reaching an altitude of 1500m before descending down to the coast and the diving village of Dehab(???).
Now the sea is the Gulf of Aqaba and does not have the beautiful colouring of the red sea. We planned to go diving, but after a quick snorkel in the crystal clear water off the beach, we could see nearly as much as the divers who were diving below us, so decided to snorkel instead. The snorkeling is good, but could be exaggerated, as there is not the variety as off Sordwana in SA. BUT they are accessible right near the shoreline so we just needed to wade in to see them and drift around with the current and not have to worry about waves. We reserve the right to change our minds tomorrow! This dive center is right next to the beach, clean, cheep and pleasant atmosphere.
Tuesday 18th September 2007 Paradise Resort and Hotel
We left early, having rearranged the Landy to accommodate an extra person more comfortably and traveled next to the Red Sea when Nev saw the dolphins right near the shore. We stopped on the side of the highway and all jumped into the water with our clothes on and swam near the dolphins. The sea isn't warm, about 24deg and crystal clear and very salty. From Hurghada to Port Suez it is double highway and there are lots of oil wells offshore. One can see why we only pay 80c/l for diesel.
Corina left us just south of Suez to cycle to Daniel in Cairo, while we carried on under the nearly 2Km tunnel under the Red Sea and into the Sinai peninsular. We traveled south and decided to try a resort for the night, expecting to be charged a fantastic rate in dollars. We were pleasantly surprised to be charged only EP300 for dinner bed and breakfast in a lovely clean room. Little did we know there we only 2 (as in Two) other guests in this enormous complex as it was in low season. (It must have been very low!) The resort has a gym, 3 restaurants, a swimming pool 35mX20m, an artificial lagoon fed from the Red Sea for swimming, two tennis courts two kiddies playgrounds, enormous water slides etc etc, we wondered how they could make ends meet.
Traveling through Egypt one realises how important rain and water is to life. Apart from around Luxor where the Nile Valley is around 10Km wide, (all under flood irrigation and the crops are outstanding) the valley is relatively narrow - down to 20m on either side of the river. Every little oasis supports either a few date palms and a family or a small village.
Things in Egypt cost less than in SA and there is: a very lot of desert !!!!!
Egypt, although very warm is not as furnacey hot as Sudan temps reach 40 deg but normally peak at 35. The nights go below 25deg.
Monday 17th September 2007 Desert spring camp
We are in Hurghada in an internet cafe and have just passed the Las Vegas of Egypt where there are hundreds of resorts and luxury hotels and hundreds more being built. The Red Sea here is covered in luxury cruise vessels and liners. The sea has spectacular colours of various shades of blue from light turquoise to dark aquamarine and virtually no waves. We went for a swim and snorkel with Corina whom we met up with again here. This place is far too touristy for us so we are heading north if there are no convoys to hamper us. Corina (Swiss cyclist) would like a lift, so we are planning to put here bicycle on the roof and take her inside with us. We will see how this works out. Nev suggested putting her up top with her bike, and she suggested being towed behind, but I think this is a better compromise.
We left Hurghada at 3.30pm with Corina and headed north, the hotels and resorts just carried on for 30km and more. They were all as big as Wild Coast Sun!
We found a track into a wadi (dry river bed) and drove up to explore for camping. We found a fantastic spot just below a spring oozing very saline brack water. This is still the Rift Valley, so it must have coming up from the depths of the earth. The rugged mountains rose steeply on either side and the silence and stars were again amazing - makes you feel close to God!
Sunday 16th September 2007 Desert mountain camp
We left Luxor fairly late as I had a runny tummy, the dreaded, but not bad "Gypo-guts" and were stopped 20Km from Luxor and told by the tourist police to wait for 2 hours for the convoy to get out of Luxor. We travelled north with the convoy until Qena where we had planned to go east to the Red Sea. But, having by now lost the convoy we were told it was "mish mumkin" not possible to go that route so we mozied on to the next town and turned east towards the Red Sea.
Nev was very glad to leave Luxor as our hotel had a mosque just outside the windsow and the calling through the loudspeakers started at 4am and lasted until 6am when the breakfast was over. This calling didn't really worry me at all, but Nev said it was like the wailing of a lot of cats.
We found a secluded quarry in the desolate mountains and set up camp.
In the deafening silence of the desert the glittering stars were the clearest we have ever seen. Spectaculr. Give me a "nothing there, just desert" any time rather than the touristy glitz and hype of Luxor.
We traveled south, passing through many police check points having to produce passports and "where are you go" - always friendly, then turned East and traveled across the middle of Sinai through the spectacular geological formations of the mountains (more check points) along a dry river bed, reaching an altitude of 1500m before descending down to the coast and the diving village of Dehab(???).
Now the sea is the Gulf of Aqaba and does not have the beautiful colouring of the red sea. We planned to go diving, but after a quick snorkel in the crystal clear water off the beach, we could see nearly as much as the divers who were diving below us, so decided to snorkel instead. The snorkeling is good, but could be exaggerated, as there is not the variety as off Sordwana in SA. BUT they are accessible right near the shoreline so we just needed to wade in to see them and drift around with the current and not have to worry about waves. We reserve the right to change our minds tomorrow! This dive center is right next to the beach, clean, cheep and pleasant atmosphere.
Tuesday 18th September 2007 Paradise Resort and Hotel
We left early, having rearranged the Landy to accommodate an extra person more comfortably and traveled next to the Red Sea when Nev saw the dolphins right near the shore. We stopped on the side of the highway and all jumped into the water with our clothes on and swam near the dolphins. The sea isn't warm, about 24deg and crystal clear and very salty. From Hurghada to Port Suez it is double highway and there are lots of oil wells offshore. One can see why we only pay 80c/l for diesel.
Corina left us just south of Suez to cycle to Daniel in Cairo, while we carried on under the nearly 2Km tunnel under the Red Sea and into the Sinai peninsular. We traveled south and decided to try a resort for the night, expecting to be charged a fantastic rate in dollars. We were pleasantly surprised to be charged only EP300 for dinner bed and breakfast in a lovely clean room. Little did we know there we only 2 (as in Two) other guests in this enormous complex as it was in low season. (It must have been very low!) The resort has a gym, 3 restaurants, a swimming pool 35mX20m, an artificial lagoon fed from the Red Sea for swimming, two tennis courts two kiddies playgrounds, enormous water slides etc etc, we wondered how they could make ends meet.
Traveling through Egypt one realises how important rain and water is to life. Apart from around Luxor where the Nile Valley is around 10Km wide, (all under flood irrigation and the crops are outstanding) the valley is relatively narrow - down to 20m on either side of the river. Every little oasis supports either a few date palms and a family or a small village.
Things in Egypt cost less than in SA and there is: a very lot of desert !!!!!
Egypt, although very warm is not as furnacey hot as Sudan temps reach 40 deg but normally peak at 35. The nights go below 25deg.
Monday 17th September 2007 Desert spring camp
We are in Hurghada in an internet cafe and have just passed the Las Vegas of Egypt where there are hundreds of resorts and luxury hotels and hundreds more being built. The Red Sea here is covered in luxury cruise vessels and liners. The sea has spectacular colours of various shades of blue from light turquoise to dark aquamarine and virtually no waves. We went for a swim and snorkel with Corina whom we met up with again here. This place is far too touristy for us so we are heading north if there are no convoys to hamper us. Corina (Swiss cyclist) would like a lift, so we are planning to put here bicycle on the roof and take her inside with us. We will see how this works out. Nev suggested putting her up top with her bike, and she suggested being towed behind, but I think this is a better compromise.
We left Hurghada at 3.30pm with Corina and headed north, the hotels and resorts just carried on for 30km and more. They were all as big as Wild Coast Sun!
We found a track into a wadi (dry river bed) and drove up to explore for camping. We found a fantastic spot just below a spring oozing very saline brack water. This is still the Rift Valley, so it must have coming up from the depths of the earth. The rugged mountains rose steeply on either side and the silence and stars were again amazing - makes you feel close to God!
Sunday 16th September 2007 Desert mountain camp
We left Luxor fairly late as I had a runny tummy, the dreaded, but not bad "Gypo-guts" and were stopped 20Km from Luxor and told by the tourist police to wait for 2 hours for the convoy to get out of Luxor. We travelled north with the convoy until Qena where we had planned to go east to the Red Sea. But, having by now lost the convoy we were told it was "mish mumkin" not possible to go that route so we mozied on to the next town and turned east towards the Red Sea.
Nev was very glad to leave Luxor as our hotel had a mosque just outside the windsow and the calling through the loudspeakers started at 4am and lasted until 6am when the breakfast was over. This calling didn't really worry me at all, but Nev said it was like the wailing of a lot of cats.
We found a secluded quarry in the desolate mountains and set up camp.
In the deafening silence of the desert the glittering stars were the clearest we have ever seen. Spectaculr. Give me a "nothing there, just desert" any time rather than the touristy glitz and hype of Luxor.
Sunday, September 16, 2007
Luxor, Egypt
Saturday 15th September 2007 same hotel in Luxor
Very nice hotel this, not like those in Ethiopia which are filthy, Egypt is first world like SA, with third world countries in between. Nev says he has worked out how Egyptians get their drivers licenses: On Mondays they get taught to drive on the right, Tuesday on the left and for the rest of the week they forget to tell them which side.Today we went to The Temple of Karnak complex. An enormous area filled with ancient civilization upon ancient civilization which they are still excavating and finding more treasures. It covers 6Ha and is awe inspiring in its enormity. Remnants of the 5000 year old colours are still in evidence and the place must have been spectacular in the extreme in its heyday.The Luxor museum contains treasures found in the tombs, but more interesting to us were the articles of everyday life. Baskets, beds, furniture, clothing etc just the same as the articles we use today. Again it emphasizes to me that people are people and nothing much changes over the eons. In the heat of the day we returned with blistered feet to recover.
Friday 14th September 2007 AlFayuoz Hotel Luxor
We woke up 5.30 and set off to see the sights on the west bank of Luxor. The Valley of the Kings. We could see three of the many tombs in the area and they were beautiful and all different. The last one of Tutmosis iii was up a long steep flight of stairs, then down 100m into the earth and as hot as a sauna and we came out absolutely saturated with sweat. The figures depicting his military exploits were in the shape of little stick figures. The first two were far more colourful and the tombs were covered in hieroglyphics and beautiful reliefs dedicated to the RamesesVII, and IV.Then the Temple of Hatshepsut built into and underneath the towering and imposing sandstone cliffs, then to the Tombs of the Nobles whose paintings were more of everyday life in ancient Egypt and far more interesting to us than the Pharaohs tombs which were more dedicated to worshipping the various gods, more touristy and crawling with tour groups. In fact we couldn't find some of the tombs of the nobles and had to pay a youngster to help us.Traveling around in our vehicle we get hooted at, waved at, and chatted to by the local drivers and shop owners who seldom see foreign vehicles in Egypt as it is so hard to get into Egypt with a vehicle. We feel the centre of attraction on many occasions. Also greeting them in Arabic and knowing a few words puts us in a different league from the hoards of tourists who come to see and then buy mementos and leave.Hot and sweaty we went back to the hotel to recover and in the evening we went to the west bank with Mark and Clive to the Luxor Temple. Gigantic sandstone carved columns and statues were amazing and we strolled around speculating, dodging the groups, and getting into the atmosphere of life 5000 years ago.At supper we couldn't eat the ordered soul fish as it was actually Barbel from the Nile, met up with cyclist Daniel (Corina had left for Hargada on the Red Sea) and had a lovely evening.
Thursday 13th September 2007 Luxor Al Fayuoz Hotel
After another three hours of being sent from pillar to post and back, we eventually received our number plates, which entitles us to remove the Landy from the harbour. It is really really difficult to enter Egypt this way! Aswan Ferry for passengers was terrible, and the ferry for the car was almost impossible. Luckily Mazar helped us to get through in two days, others take up to four days.We packed and left and missed the convoy but headed for Luxor anyway. We got stopped at a police road block 100Km away from Aswan but when they found out we were from South Africa we got waved on with lots of friendliness and good humour while the tourist bus behind us had to wait for the police. Egyptians regard South Africans as their cousins and greet us with 'Bafana bafana' or "Nelson Mandela". Arriving in Luxor as the sun was setting on the first day of Ramadan, the Muslim fast, we were stopped on a bridge and a man insisted we sit on a mat and partake of a 'break fast'. So we had supper on the bridge. It was amazing to get into the atmosphere of the celebrations.
Very nice hotel this, not like those in Ethiopia which are filthy, Egypt is first world like SA, with third world countries in between. Nev says he has worked out how Egyptians get their drivers licenses: On Mondays they get taught to drive on the right, Tuesday on the left and for the rest of the week they forget to tell them which side.Today we went to The Temple of Karnak complex. An enormous area filled with ancient civilization upon ancient civilization which they are still excavating and finding more treasures. It covers 6Ha and is awe inspiring in its enormity. Remnants of the 5000 year old colours are still in evidence and the place must have been spectacular in the extreme in its heyday.The Luxor museum contains treasures found in the tombs, but more interesting to us were the articles of everyday life. Baskets, beds, furniture, clothing etc just the same as the articles we use today. Again it emphasizes to me that people are people and nothing much changes over the eons. In the heat of the day we returned with blistered feet to recover.
Friday 14th September 2007 AlFayuoz Hotel Luxor
We woke up 5.30 and set off to see the sights on the west bank of Luxor. The Valley of the Kings. We could see three of the many tombs in the area and they were beautiful and all different. The last one of Tutmosis iii was up a long steep flight of stairs, then down 100m into the earth and as hot as a sauna and we came out absolutely saturated with sweat. The figures depicting his military exploits were in the shape of little stick figures. The first two were far more colourful and the tombs were covered in hieroglyphics and beautiful reliefs dedicated to the RamesesVII, and IV.Then the Temple of Hatshepsut built into and underneath the towering and imposing sandstone cliffs, then to the Tombs of the Nobles whose paintings were more of everyday life in ancient Egypt and far more interesting to us than the Pharaohs tombs which were more dedicated to worshipping the various gods, more touristy and crawling with tour groups. In fact we couldn't find some of the tombs of the nobles and had to pay a youngster to help us.Traveling around in our vehicle we get hooted at, waved at, and chatted to by the local drivers and shop owners who seldom see foreign vehicles in Egypt as it is so hard to get into Egypt with a vehicle. We feel the centre of attraction on many occasions. Also greeting them in Arabic and knowing a few words puts us in a different league from the hoards of tourists who come to see and then buy mementos and leave.Hot and sweaty we went back to the hotel to recover and in the evening we went to the west bank with Mark and Clive to the Luxor Temple. Gigantic sandstone carved columns and statues were amazing and we strolled around speculating, dodging the groups, and getting into the atmosphere of life 5000 years ago.At supper we couldn't eat the ordered soul fish as it was actually Barbel from the Nile, met up with cyclist Daniel (Corina had left for Hargada on the Red Sea) and had a lovely evening.
Thursday 13th September 2007 Luxor Al Fayuoz Hotel
After another three hours of being sent from pillar to post and back, we eventually received our number plates, which entitles us to remove the Landy from the harbour. It is really really difficult to enter Egypt this way! Aswan Ferry for passengers was terrible, and the ferry for the car was almost impossible. Luckily Mazar helped us to get through in two days, others take up to four days.We packed and left and missed the convoy but headed for Luxor anyway. We got stopped at a police road block 100Km away from Aswan but when they found out we were from South Africa we got waved on with lots of friendliness and good humour while the tourist bus behind us had to wait for the police. Egyptians regard South Africans as their cousins and greet us with 'Bafana bafana' or "Nelson Mandela". Arriving in Luxor as the sun was setting on the first day of Ramadan, the Muslim fast, we were stopped on a bridge and a man insisted we sit on a mat and partake of a 'break fast'. So we had supper on the bridge. It was amazing to get into the atmosphere of the celebrations.
Friday, September 14, 2007
Still in Aswan, Ethiopia
Wednesday 12th September 2007 Still Aswan
Yay, the Landy has arrived in the harbour six days after we got here! Now the process of getting the Landy out of the harbour can start.
Mazar arrived at the appointed time and Mark and we went to the harbour and offloaded the vehicles. Everything seemed to be in order, even our meat in the freezer was ok, but the freezer batteries are really flat.
We had to pay EP522 and fill in forms at different places. Everyone is so pleasant and friendly, but so so slow. Then back to Aswan to the traffic dept to get a stamp and more forms, then to the police to collect a man to check the chassis and engine numbers. Now have any of you looked for the engine number in the Landy engine, you will know how difficult it was. The man had to stand on his head and take a tracing of the number on the block of the hot engine. We were all dripping with sweat and full of dust, grease and oil in the 40deg heat, trying to find where all the stamps on the chassis and engine were. He managed to trace the P after the 7th attempt and then accepted that it was the right number. Mark was having similar trouble with the chassis number on his Landcruiser and we all laughed at each other's filthy states. Mark looked like a greased monkey and the taxi driver didn't want to let him inside his 1940 taxi.
Tomorrow we have to get Egyptian number plates, a licence and insurance. Then we will be “outta here!”
Tuesday 11th September 2007 Still Aswan
Nothing untoward happened politically here being the anniversary of 9-11, also it was the Ethiopian new-years day, new millennium, and they are at last in 2000.
We spent a very frustrating day waiting for the Landy to come. Mazar did not contact us and we could not get hold of him, so we eventually caught a taxi to the harbour via the Aswan Dam wall. These Egyptians still haven't worked out on which side of the road they are meant to be driving and we had some narrow shaves as the vehicles argued while speeding towards each other hooting. They certainly save on breaks here by using their hooters. Then we went over the High Dam wall (over 3Km long and 40m wide at the top, 1Km wide at the bottom). The authorities assured us that the Landys would be here tomorrow 8am.
Mark and we went on a felucca sail on the Nile but chose a windless evening and it turned out to be a felucca row. Very much cooler on the river and was really pleasant watching the sun go down over the hills.
Monday 10th September 2007. Still Aswan
We woke up at 3am to catch the bus at 3.30. Mark and Daniel came with us, Corina had sore legs and Clive had issues to deal with.
The trip took 2 1/2 hours through desert on either side of the road, so we slept, chatted and read much of the time. There was a huge convoy of tourist busses, but the number of people there didn't really worry us. High season could be stiflingly crowded though.
The temples had been rescued block by block (max 30tonne blocks) after the high dam had been constructed and the water level had started to rise. Building a coffer dam was a neck and neck race with the water, but when the protecting dam had been completed the rescue work could begin. The temples consist of not only a magnificent and enormous facade, but the inside of the temples too, which had been hewn directly into the sandstone cliffs. It was an enormous undertaking, and the results are spectacular. The statues are immense, and you have to actually stand next to them to realize just how big they are. The relief work inside and the carvings and paintings are a "must see" in Egypt. The engineers of the 1960s were nearly as clever as the Egyptians 4000years ago.
Nev is amazed that although the Egyptians were using chariots 4000 years ago, the Ethiopians are still not using the wheel.
On our return we discovered that the ferry will only be arriving tomorrow morning, or as the Egyptians put it "Bokra, Inshala", which can mean anything really, but literally, “tomorrow, god willing”. Nev is getting very irritated and frustrated with having to mark time here. At least there are things to do and see, but he is really disappointed in Midhat's organization. However, we have yet to see what happens tomorrow.
Sunday 9th September 2007 Still Aswan
The ferry was meant to come today and didn't, so we hope it will come tomorrow, as promised. This meant we didn't really do anything productive today, as we waited for the answer. When we heard it was coming tomorrow, we booked to go on the bus to Abu Simbil, 250Km south of Aswan. The bus has to travel in convoy and is costing us EP50 each, which is about 1/10th what it would cost to drive ourselves anyway.
Yay, the Landy has arrived in the harbour six days after we got here! Now the process of getting the Landy out of the harbour can start.
Mazar arrived at the appointed time and Mark and we went to the harbour and offloaded the vehicles. Everything seemed to be in order, even our meat in the freezer was ok, but the freezer batteries are really flat.
We had to pay EP522 and fill in forms at different places. Everyone is so pleasant and friendly, but so so slow. Then back to Aswan to the traffic dept to get a stamp and more forms, then to the police to collect a man to check the chassis and engine numbers. Now have any of you looked for the engine number in the Landy engine, you will know how difficult it was. The man had to stand on his head and take a tracing of the number on the block of the hot engine. We were all dripping with sweat and full of dust, grease and oil in the 40deg heat, trying to find where all the stamps on the chassis and engine were. He managed to trace the P after the 7th attempt and then accepted that it was the right number. Mark was having similar trouble with the chassis number on his Landcruiser and we all laughed at each other's filthy states. Mark looked like a greased monkey and the taxi driver didn't want to let him inside his 1940 taxi.
Tomorrow we have to get Egyptian number plates, a licence and insurance. Then we will be “outta here!”
Tuesday 11th September 2007 Still Aswan
Nothing untoward happened politically here being the anniversary of 9-11, also it was the Ethiopian new-years day, new millennium, and they are at last in 2000.
We spent a very frustrating day waiting for the Landy to come. Mazar did not contact us and we could not get hold of him, so we eventually caught a taxi to the harbour via the Aswan Dam wall. These Egyptians still haven't worked out on which side of the road they are meant to be driving and we had some narrow shaves as the vehicles argued while speeding towards each other hooting. They certainly save on breaks here by using their hooters. Then we went over the High Dam wall (over 3Km long and 40m wide at the top, 1Km wide at the bottom). The authorities assured us that the Landys would be here tomorrow 8am.
Mark and we went on a felucca sail on the Nile but chose a windless evening and it turned out to be a felucca row. Very much cooler on the river and was really pleasant watching the sun go down over the hills.
Monday 10th September 2007. Still Aswan
We woke up at 3am to catch the bus at 3.30. Mark and Daniel came with us, Corina had sore legs and Clive had issues to deal with.
The trip took 2 1/2 hours through desert on either side of the road, so we slept, chatted and read much of the time. There was a huge convoy of tourist busses, but the number of people there didn't really worry us. High season could be stiflingly crowded though.
The temples had been rescued block by block (max 30tonne blocks) after the high dam had been constructed and the water level had started to rise. Building a coffer dam was a neck and neck race with the water, but when the protecting dam had been completed the rescue work could begin. The temples consist of not only a magnificent and enormous facade, but the inside of the temples too, which had been hewn directly into the sandstone cliffs. It was an enormous undertaking, and the results are spectacular. The statues are immense, and you have to actually stand next to them to realize just how big they are. The relief work inside and the carvings and paintings are a "must see" in Egypt. The engineers of the 1960s were nearly as clever as the Egyptians 4000years ago.
Nev is amazed that although the Egyptians were using chariots 4000 years ago, the Ethiopians are still not using the wheel.
On our return we discovered that the ferry will only be arriving tomorrow morning, or as the Egyptians put it "Bokra, Inshala", which can mean anything really, but literally, “tomorrow, god willing”. Nev is getting very irritated and frustrated with having to mark time here. At least there are things to do and see, but he is really disappointed in Midhat's organization. However, we have yet to see what happens tomorrow.
Sunday 9th September 2007 Still Aswan
The ferry was meant to come today and didn't, so we hope it will come tomorrow, as promised. This meant we didn't really do anything productive today, as we waited for the answer. When we heard it was coming tomorrow, we booked to go on the bus to Abu Simbil, 250Km south of Aswan. The bus has to travel in convoy and is costing us EP50 each, which is about 1/10th what it would cost to drive ourselves anyway.
Sunday, September 9, 2007
Aswan, Ethiopia
Saturday 8th September 2007. Still Aswan
We phoned Mazar about the Landy and were told it had not arrived, and had only just been loaded!!! Earliest to get here Sunday midday. Damn!!
We took a ferry across the Nile (with Carina and Daniel) to the Tombs of the Nobles on the West side of the Nile and walked up the hill to the tombs. There are over 300 tombs carved into the sandstone. Some had giant pillars inside and some had intricately painted murals and heiroglyphics on the walls. We then climbed to the Tomb at the top of the hill and were afforded magnificent views of Aswan and the Nile River, with all the islands.
We then returned to the hotel, swam to cool down, and came to this internet to catch up.
Friday 7th September 2007 Still Aswan
This morning we took a walk through the cemetery on the hill to the quarry and the "Unfinished obelisk". We wondered around marveling at the way the beautiful pink granite had been mined, and speculating how they had done it. We chatted to one of the many security police (they are everywhere) who gave us an impromptu guided tour and explained that to get the huge slabs of rock weighing over 1000tonnes, they would use dolerite stones to hammer holes in the rock, fill them up with sandlewood, wet the wood and the expanding wood would crack the granite in just the right place (hopefully) This unfinished obelisk had cracked in the wrong place so they had abandoned the task. They got most of the granite for the tombs all over Egypt here, as it is the only place around where there is a granite quarry. The expensive and stunning stuff we put on our kitchen tops is used here for paving the streets!!
We then went to the Nubia Museum. It was full of photos of the sites inundated by the flood waters of the Aswan dam -Lake Nassar. We discovered that the well we had found in Sudan and had partially excavated had actually been a tomb and we now wish we had dug deeper.
The afternoon was spent around the pool at the top of the hotel with the 2 SA men and the 2 Swiss cyclists.
During the evening we and Clive and Mark caught a boat to the rescued Temple of Isis where we endured an hour-long sound and light show. It was very touristy, and we were not allowed to explore on our own outside the roped off area, so wasn't our scene, although we did enjoy the pristine carvings and pertroglyphs and enormous size of the temple. It was rescued stone by stone from its original site and rebuilt on an island above the flood level of the Nile. Quite some feat. We had a really delicious Egyptian dinner in the market with Mark and Clive, who are also waiting for their vehicle and staying in the same hotel as we are.
Thursday 6th September 2007 Aswan Hotel Orchida St George
We enjoyed the trip and prepared to leave the ferry as it arrived at Aswan at 10am. Ha ha.
This was the most chaotic border crossing we have ever experienced. We were all kept on the ferry until after 3pm by the officious Egyptian immigration officer who first had to stamp everyone 's passport, then had some trouble with some Sudanese and kept us all on board with no water or food in temperatures in the 40s. We were fortunate to be able to wait in our air-conned cabin, but the others really suffered. We all voted it the worst border post in the world!!
Eventually we disembarked and under the guidance of Mdhat's brother, Mazar found our hotel and settled in to await the arrival of our Landy sometime Saturday (maybe).
Aswan is like another world! Really commercial and bustling compared with the lovely, laid back hospitality of Sudan. Here we are seen as walking money, and they try every means to relieve us of it legally. The hotel has aircon and a swimming pool and is costing us R80 together with a sort of continental breakfast. The Egyptian pound is EP5.80 to $1.00
We took a walk through the colourful souq (market) which stays open until late in the night (midnight) as it is cooler at night. It is clean and classy and fun, as we got accosted by the sellers with every single line you can think of, and every one different. Hey, remember me from yesterday, or, Don't come in my shop, I have enough money, or, What is this blue stuff? (pointing to indigo, the blue they sell for keeping clothes white, like Rickets Blue of old), or special price for you, or where do you come from? or You just look, no buy, or Everything for free. In fact anything to get your attention, and then stand in front as you try to continue. It is all in great sense of fun and good humour and we had a whale of a time not buying anything.
Wednesday 5th September 2007 ferry cabin
The ferry to load the Landy hadn't arrived yet and we had to leave the Landy behind in Magdi's hands hoping that it was going to be loaded tonight. We bordered the ferry at 2pm, very glad to have got 1st class tickets as we had a double bunk in an air conditioned cabin, the others had to sleep on the deck in the sun amongst hundreds of bodies. We eventually left at 6pm for Aswan. By this time we had become great friends with the SA men, and the Swiss cyclists, who had only arrived in Wadi Halfa the night before. We were glad that they made it. We had been given a meal ticket but had to add R5 each to get a 'special' meal of chicken. We spent much time reading and chatting to our friends, and were having such a good time in the dining room that we nearly missed seeing Abu Simbel lit up at the edge of the Lake as we passed.
Tuesday 4th September 2007 Desert camp again
We spent the day getting tickets for the ferry and met up with two South African men, Clive and Mark, from Durban who had traveled up the Eastern route through the sand desert and who had got stuck in the sand several times and eventually traveled along the railway line. Also met 11 South Africans from the Koi doing a trip up Africa to 'find their roots', a big farce from our perspective, as only two are Koi, but they need to do what they need to do!! Also met two South Africans who had just arrived from Aswan, Bets and Johan, who had been traveling with Dave and Beryl (who should by now be in Lybia).
Bets and Johan were very sad to not have met up with us earlier as he and Nev were on the same wave-length and have great plans for traveling through South America and Australia.
It was extremely hot and we were glad for the breeze in the night and loved to sleep in the silence of the desert.
We phoned Mazar about the Landy and were told it had not arrived, and had only just been loaded!!! Earliest to get here Sunday midday. Damn!!
We took a ferry across the Nile (with Carina and Daniel) to the Tombs of the Nobles on the West side of the Nile and walked up the hill to the tombs. There are over 300 tombs carved into the sandstone. Some had giant pillars inside and some had intricately painted murals and heiroglyphics on the walls. We then climbed to the Tomb at the top of the hill and were afforded magnificent views of Aswan and the Nile River, with all the islands.
We then returned to the hotel, swam to cool down, and came to this internet to catch up.
Friday 7th September 2007 Still Aswan
This morning we took a walk through the cemetery on the hill to the quarry and the "Unfinished obelisk". We wondered around marveling at the way the beautiful pink granite had been mined, and speculating how they had done it. We chatted to one of the many security police (they are everywhere) who gave us an impromptu guided tour and explained that to get the huge slabs of rock weighing over 1000tonnes, they would use dolerite stones to hammer holes in the rock, fill them up with sandlewood, wet the wood and the expanding wood would crack the granite in just the right place (hopefully) This unfinished obelisk had cracked in the wrong place so they had abandoned the task. They got most of the granite for the tombs all over Egypt here, as it is the only place around where there is a granite quarry. The expensive and stunning stuff we put on our kitchen tops is used here for paving the streets!!
We then went to the Nubia Museum. It was full of photos of the sites inundated by the flood waters of the Aswan dam -Lake Nassar. We discovered that the well we had found in Sudan and had partially excavated had actually been a tomb and we now wish we had dug deeper.
The afternoon was spent around the pool at the top of the hotel with the 2 SA men and the 2 Swiss cyclists.
During the evening we and Clive and Mark caught a boat to the rescued Temple of Isis where we endured an hour-long sound and light show. It was very touristy, and we were not allowed to explore on our own outside the roped off area, so wasn't our scene, although we did enjoy the pristine carvings and pertroglyphs and enormous size of the temple. It was rescued stone by stone from its original site and rebuilt on an island above the flood level of the Nile. Quite some feat. We had a really delicious Egyptian dinner in the market with Mark and Clive, who are also waiting for their vehicle and staying in the same hotel as we are.
Thursday 6th September 2007 Aswan Hotel Orchida St George
We enjoyed the trip and prepared to leave the ferry as it arrived at Aswan at 10am. Ha ha.
This was the most chaotic border crossing we have ever experienced. We were all kept on the ferry until after 3pm by the officious Egyptian immigration officer who first had to stamp everyone 's passport, then had some trouble with some Sudanese and kept us all on board with no water or food in temperatures in the 40s. We were fortunate to be able to wait in our air-conned cabin, but the others really suffered. We all voted it the worst border post in the world!!
Eventually we disembarked and under the guidance of Mdhat's brother, Mazar found our hotel and settled in to await the arrival of our Landy sometime Saturday (maybe).
Aswan is like another world! Really commercial and bustling compared with the lovely, laid back hospitality of Sudan. Here we are seen as walking money, and they try every means to relieve us of it legally. The hotel has aircon and a swimming pool and is costing us R80 together with a sort of continental breakfast. The Egyptian pound is EP5.80 to $1.00
We took a walk through the colourful souq (market) which stays open until late in the night (midnight) as it is cooler at night. It is clean and classy and fun, as we got accosted by the sellers with every single line you can think of, and every one different. Hey, remember me from yesterday, or, Don't come in my shop, I have enough money, or, What is this blue stuff? (pointing to indigo, the blue they sell for keeping clothes white, like Rickets Blue of old), or special price for you, or where do you come from? or You just look, no buy, or Everything for free. In fact anything to get your attention, and then stand in front as you try to continue. It is all in great sense of fun and good humour and we had a whale of a time not buying anything.
Wednesday 5th September 2007 ferry cabin
The ferry to load the Landy hadn't arrived yet and we had to leave the Landy behind in Magdi's hands hoping that it was going to be loaded tonight. We bordered the ferry at 2pm, very glad to have got 1st class tickets as we had a double bunk in an air conditioned cabin, the others had to sleep on the deck in the sun amongst hundreds of bodies. We eventually left at 6pm for Aswan. By this time we had become great friends with the SA men, and the Swiss cyclists, who had only arrived in Wadi Halfa the night before. We were glad that they made it. We had been given a meal ticket but had to add R5 each to get a 'special' meal of chicken. We spent much time reading and chatting to our friends, and were having such a good time in the dining room that we nearly missed seeing Abu Simbel lit up at the edge of the Lake as we passed.
Tuesday 4th September 2007 Desert camp again
We spent the day getting tickets for the ferry and met up with two South African men, Clive and Mark, from Durban who had traveled up the Eastern route through the sand desert and who had got stuck in the sand several times and eventually traveled along the railway line. Also met 11 South Africans from the Koi doing a trip up Africa to 'find their roots', a big farce from our perspective, as only two are Koi, but they need to do what they need to do!! Also met two South Africans who had just arrived from Aswan, Bets and Johan, who had been traveling with Dave and Beryl (who should by now be in Lybia).
Bets and Johan were very sad to not have met up with us earlier as he and Nev were on the same wave-length and have great plans for traveling through South America and Australia.
It was extremely hot and we were glad for the breeze in the night and loved to sleep in the silence of the desert.
Monday, September 3, 2007
Wadi Halfa, Sudan
Monday 3rd September 2007 Wadi Halfa desert camp No2
We woke early thinking we were going to load the Landy and discovered that we could only load it Wednesday. So we have two days of waiting here in Wadi Halfa and a further wait in Aswan.
Midhat has offered us the use of his house, so we will be able to keep cool. We might be able to blog on Wednesday morning before we catch the ferry to Aswan.
Sunday 2nd September 2007 Wadi Halfa Desert Camp.
Today we drove through Hell. Black jaggered mountains, waterless desert, hardly any dunes for 160Km away from the Nile and only one stopover oasis, where a man sells food and drink to busses. It was hot, the road terrible and the going slow. (They are building a new road though.) We arrived at Wadi Halfa at 4pm and found we had a puncture. The second since leaving home. Our tyres have taken a hammering in the rocks. We found the relevant people to help us board the ferry and retreated into the desert 5Km away to sleep after being told that the Landy could board the cargo ferry tomorrow. This is one of the countries that the Johnson's would really like. Hot, dry, deserted, few mozzies and vast vacant places and desert to explore.
Saturday 1st September 2007 Desert camp South of Abri
We packed up at leisure and enjoyed the cool palm grove undisturbed. We left at 9.30 with the temp at 43 and followed the road through Nile-side villages. Each household area is walled in with a 2.5m high mud brick wall, occasionally decorated. Neighbours do not share walls and there are arbitrary alley ways between the houses. The rooms inside all face the courtyard. The window openings are usually metal shutters and are closed. Most have a single tap for water in the courtyard, usually brownish Nile water at this time of the year. Even towns as big as Atbara and Dongola. Often, if we do see people, they are men in their white jalabia robes lounging on mattresses and beds in the shade. We often get offered these beds, and have used them, and shai, very sweet black tea and food as we pass. They are extremely friendly and hospitable and are disappointed when we are so rude as to not take up their offer. They do not intrude on our space, even if we stop in their farmyard or pathway. They greet us and keep going. We feel safe and welcome. Crime is almost unknown and begging frowned upon. The roofs are made of matting.
Yesterday a kid with a brand new bike offered to swop it for my cell phone. I have also been offered a donkey for my cell which I considered as it was very tame something to which I aspire in my horse. They ride them halter-less, bareback and steer with a stick.
Friday 31st August 2007 Date Palms, Nile River
We have 300Km to go to get to Wadi Halfa by Sunday night so we are taking our time. We first called in at Dafufa, what appeared to be an 18m high anthill. It was a tomb-like structure 3000 years old made of mud bricks with ventilation vents, and snow-white granite pillar bases. Really intriguing.
We carried on north and stopped next to the Nile in the shade of the date palms grove. We repacked the Landy as we have too much stuff. Nev fell asleep. A Sudanese lady came along and greeted us and offered to bring Nev a bed, and then went away and left us alone. The Nile floods for the three hottest months of Aug, Sept and Oct. The small-scale farmers along the banks of the Nile utilize flood irrigation: during the wet season by using the high level of the Nile, and during the dry season by pumping the water into massive irrigation canals. It is too hot for crops at this time of the year except for dates and lucerne. Maize, sorghum, millet, onions and beans and potatoes are the main crops here apart from dates. The area of cultivated land varies between 20m to kilometers. The Sudanese also flood areas that are lower lying than the Nile during the wet months, in this way enriching Sudan sandy soil with Ethiopian topsoil, enabling them to cultivate more land every year. Some lands next to the Nile are sandy with an underlying layer of impervious sandstone and in this way they get topsoil.
We headed north after resting. Nev followed the main road out of Kerma and I fell asleep. As you all know I do not like to be woken up, so Nev followed the only sand-track road and arrived in an oasis, and I woke up. Nev had been checking the GPS but wasn't sure whether I had set it, but noticed that it said we were going the wrong way. It was midday and we had gone in a huge curve and we had been going south for 15Km. We drove back with Nev muttering and started again, this time with me awake, and landed on the same road. There was no-one around as it was Friday mosque and we couldn't ask direction. On the fourth attempt, after landing in gravel pits, following single tracks we discovered the road and proceeded on our way. We found a date palm grove next to the Nile at 'third cataract' where it was lovely and cool (temp was 48) and made camp early.
Thursday 30th August 2007. Kerma street , Assaam's house
We left Dongola for Kerma 45Km away. We went up the west bank intending to cross the ferry to Kerma. When we got there we were told that it was not working and that we should go back 5Km to siom and Asaam would take us there as he lived in Kerma. He was a 'big man' there and owned lots of property and businesses. The 5Km turned in 45Km and Asaam was a 'bullduster' and we ended up back at the ferry at Dongola. The sweating fat man at the ferry wouldn't sell us a ticket as we had to get police clearance. So off we went to the police station where we caused chaos as simultaneously, eight Arabic speaking police officers wanted three photos and took copies of irrelevant pages of our passports. They eventually told us to go back to Khartoum to get an Arabic translation of our passports. After much gesticulating and protesting on our part they said we must go, go, go. We wouldn't because we didn't have police clearance. So they wrote a letter for us to give to the police at the ferry. The fat man still wouldn't sell us a ticket, so back we went to Dongola and found the police who said follow me and we went back to the ferry. They eventually sorted out we needed to go to registration, so we jumped into a taxi who took us to registration, where we got the paper, and were at last able to buy a ticket for the ferry. It is easy to loose one's sense of humour in 46 deg heat and when you have Asaam chirping in the background, so it took quite some control, and afterwards we could really laugh at what happened. We crossed the 700m wide Nile at 4.30pm.
Asaam's offer of his garden, bed, and food were irresistible so he directed us to Kerma with me sitting on the consol. He took us to a 'kitchen' (open air eating place for men) and we had our first Sudanese meal of ful (beans) lentils, meat and salad, which you scooped up with bread with your right hand and ate it.
We don't get hungry as our tummys are so full of liquid. Our freezer is full of unfinished food.
We woke early thinking we were going to load the Landy and discovered that we could only load it Wednesday. So we have two days of waiting here in Wadi Halfa and a further wait in Aswan.
Midhat has offered us the use of his house, so we will be able to keep cool. We might be able to blog on Wednesday morning before we catch the ferry to Aswan.
Sunday 2nd September 2007 Wadi Halfa Desert Camp.
Today we drove through Hell. Black jaggered mountains, waterless desert, hardly any dunes for 160Km away from the Nile and only one stopover oasis, where a man sells food and drink to busses. It was hot, the road terrible and the going slow. (They are building a new road though.) We arrived at Wadi Halfa at 4pm and found we had a puncture. The second since leaving home. Our tyres have taken a hammering in the rocks. We found the relevant people to help us board the ferry and retreated into the desert 5Km away to sleep after being told that the Landy could board the cargo ferry tomorrow. This is one of the countries that the Johnson's would really like. Hot, dry, deserted, few mozzies and vast vacant places and desert to explore.
Saturday 1st September 2007 Desert camp South of Abri
We packed up at leisure and enjoyed the cool palm grove undisturbed. We left at 9.30 with the temp at 43 and followed the road through Nile-side villages. Each household area is walled in with a 2.5m high mud brick wall, occasionally decorated. Neighbours do not share walls and there are arbitrary alley ways between the houses. The rooms inside all face the courtyard. The window openings are usually metal shutters and are closed. Most have a single tap for water in the courtyard, usually brownish Nile water at this time of the year. Even towns as big as Atbara and Dongola. Often, if we do see people, they are men in their white jalabia robes lounging on mattresses and beds in the shade. We often get offered these beds, and have used them, and shai, very sweet black tea and food as we pass. They are extremely friendly and hospitable and are disappointed when we are so rude as to not take up their offer. They do not intrude on our space, even if we stop in their farmyard or pathway. They greet us and keep going. We feel safe and welcome. Crime is almost unknown and begging frowned upon. The roofs are made of matting.
Yesterday a kid with a brand new bike offered to swop it for my cell phone. I have also been offered a donkey for my cell which I considered as it was very tame something to which I aspire in my horse. They ride them halter-less, bareback and steer with a stick.
Friday 31st August 2007 Date Palms, Nile River
We have 300Km to go to get to Wadi Halfa by Sunday night so we are taking our time. We first called in at Dafufa, what appeared to be an 18m high anthill. It was a tomb-like structure 3000 years old made of mud bricks with ventilation vents, and snow-white granite pillar bases. Really intriguing.
We carried on north and stopped next to the Nile in the shade of the date palms grove. We repacked the Landy as we have too much stuff. Nev fell asleep. A Sudanese lady came along and greeted us and offered to bring Nev a bed, and then went away and left us alone. The Nile floods for the three hottest months of Aug, Sept and Oct. The small-scale farmers along the banks of the Nile utilize flood irrigation: during the wet season by using the high level of the Nile, and during the dry season by pumping the water into massive irrigation canals. It is too hot for crops at this time of the year except for dates and lucerne. Maize, sorghum, millet, onions and beans and potatoes are the main crops here apart from dates. The area of cultivated land varies between 20m to kilometers. The Sudanese also flood areas that are lower lying than the Nile during the wet months, in this way enriching Sudan sandy soil with Ethiopian topsoil, enabling them to cultivate more land every year. Some lands next to the Nile are sandy with an underlying layer of impervious sandstone and in this way they get topsoil.
We headed north after resting. Nev followed the main road out of Kerma and I fell asleep. As you all know I do not like to be woken up, so Nev followed the only sand-track road and arrived in an oasis, and I woke up. Nev had been checking the GPS but wasn't sure whether I had set it, but noticed that it said we were going the wrong way. It was midday and we had gone in a huge curve and we had been going south for 15Km. We drove back with Nev muttering and started again, this time with me awake, and landed on the same road. There was no-one around as it was Friday mosque and we couldn't ask direction. On the fourth attempt, after landing in gravel pits, following single tracks we discovered the road and proceeded on our way. We found a date palm grove next to the Nile at 'third cataract' where it was lovely and cool (temp was 48) and made camp early.
Thursday 30th August 2007. Kerma street , Assaam's house
We left Dongola for Kerma 45Km away. We went up the west bank intending to cross the ferry to Kerma. When we got there we were told that it was not working and that we should go back 5Km to siom and Asaam would take us there as he lived in Kerma. He was a 'big man' there and owned lots of property and businesses. The 5Km turned in 45Km and Asaam was a 'bullduster' and we ended up back at the ferry at Dongola. The sweating fat man at the ferry wouldn't sell us a ticket as we had to get police clearance. So off we went to the police station where we caused chaos as simultaneously, eight Arabic speaking police officers wanted three photos and took copies of irrelevant pages of our passports. They eventually told us to go back to Khartoum to get an Arabic translation of our passports. After much gesticulating and protesting on our part they said we must go, go, go. We wouldn't because we didn't have police clearance. So they wrote a letter for us to give to the police at the ferry. The fat man still wouldn't sell us a ticket, so back we went to Dongola and found the police who said follow me and we went back to the ferry. They eventually sorted out we needed to go to registration, so we jumped into a taxi who took us to registration, where we got the paper, and were at last able to buy a ticket for the ferry. It is easy to loose one's sense of humour in 46 deg heat and when you have Asaam chirping in the background, so it took quite some control, and afterwards we could really laugh at what happened. We crossed the 700m wide Nile at 4.30pm.
Asaam's offer of his garden, bed, and food were irresistible so he directed us to Kerma with me sitting on the consol. He took us to a 'kitchen' (open air eating place for men) and we had our first Sudanese meal of ful (beans) lentils, meat and salad, which you scooped up with bread with your right hand and ate it.
We don't get hungry as our tummys are so full of liquid. Our freezer is full of unfinished food.
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